I received some wider ribbons from Offray
, and immediately thought, "Oh good...a canvas to stitch on!" I wasn't sure at first how well the ribbon would hold up to being embroidered by a lot of beads, but by making a few adjustments, it worked out really well. I'll be doing this again, for sure!
Materials & Tools
3 inch wide Offray red satin ribbon
Lightweight fusible interfacing
Lightweight acrylic beads
Size 11/0 seed beads
Beading thread (I use Nymo)
Metal ribbon ends, 4 at 10mm
Jump rings (if needed for additional length)
Magnetic clasps, or clasps of your choice
Chain nose pliers
1. Measure your wrist and cut a piece of 3 inch wide ribbon 1 inch longer than the exact measurement.
2. Cut a piece of lightweight fusible interfacing 1 inch shorter than the ribbon length by 1 3/8 inch wide. Center it as shown on the lower half of your ribbon, just about 1/8 inch up from the bottom edge. Fuse it in place with a warm iron.
3. Fold the ribbon in half with the interfacing on the inside and crease the mid-line with your iron.
4. Unfold the ribbon, and using the fold line as a guide, stitch beading onto the bottom half with the interfacing backing, keeping the beadwork back at least 3/4 inch from either short end. I used back stitch to attach my beads. To create a solid row of back stitching, attach thread to the back of the piece by taking a few tiny shallow stitches through the interfacing. Pass the needle through to the front and pick up 2 or 3 beads. I picked up 3 the first time and 2 for every following stitch. Make sure the beads are snug against the exiting end of the thread and bring the needle straight down through the ribbon right at the end of the row of beads. Bring the needle up between two of the center beads in your group, in this case between bead 1 and bead 2. Pass the needle again through the last half of the beads in your group, in this case through beads 2 and 3. Pull the thread through. Pick up the next two beads and repeat from the beginning, working your thread in a circular pattern that creates a row. [Note - your rows do not have to be straight.] Do not pull too tightly on the thread as you work. The bracelet will curve when you wear it, and a tiny bit of slack will be needed to allow the beads to curve too.
5. For the disconnected middle row of beads, I back stitched each group as per the instructions in step 4, anchoring the thread in the interfacing on the back between each group.
6. Fold the short edges of the ribbon to the inside, 1/2 inch on both ends, and pin the bracelet all the way around, even on the folded edge to keep it from slipping. You can see how a tiny bit of thread shows between some of the beads. While you don't want it really loose, this little bit of extra will allow the bracelet to curve as explained in step 4.
7. Use two strands of embroidery floss to add blanket stitch around the edges. I added seed beads to every other stitch along the long edges. Do not add beads to the short ends.
8. Add metal ribbon ends to both short ends of the bracelet. Use a pair of chain nose pliers to squeeze them firmly shut. I chose to use 4 total ends in a shorter length (10mm) rather than one large one in order to keep the short ends nicely aligned when the bracelet is worn.
9. Attach clasps to each metal ribbon end. Magnetic clasps make on and off really easy, but you can use whatever style you like, perhaps adding jump rings if needed for additional length. Since the bracelet was cut to take into account the exact measurement of your wrist, you can add jump rings to give yourself additional ease if you like a looser fit.
This post is sponsored by Offray, from whom I have received some of the products in order to create this project for you.
Copyright 2015 Cyndi Lavin. All rights reserved. Not to be reprinted, resold, or redistributed for profit. May be printed out for personal use or distributed electronically provided that entire file, including this notice, remains intact.
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